Sewage Pump System
A sewage pump is
ideal for basement installations, pumping below-grade toilets,
and laundry facilities. It usually includes a lightweight, corrosion resistant
sump/sewage basin, and cover.
These basins are used for residential, commercial, and industrial
collection of sewage, effluent drainage and seepage
water. The basin cover kit includes an inlet hub, a gas tight
cover, vent and discharge grommets, cord seals, gaskets, and
hardware. Access openings allow for easy removal of the
pump without disturbing the vent connection. No special tools
or sealants are required.
NOTICE: This unit is not designed for applications involving salt
water or brine! Use with salt water or brine will void warranty.
1. Dig the hole for the sewage basin and the sub-base. The
hole must be deep enough so the finished floor is flush
with the top of the basin. Refer to Figure 1, below.
NOTICE: The sub-base should include 4” of sand or
gravel. The maximum diameter of crushed rock should be
1/2”. The recommended maximum diameter of pea gravel
2. Level the sub-base out, until it is smooth. Sharp rock can
damage the basin.
3. Install the basin on top of the sub-base.
4. Backfill around the basin with crushed rock, with a maximum
diameter of 1/2”, or use pea gravel.
5. Insert the 4” inlet pipe through the rubber grommet. Insert
it 2 inches into the basin. Dish soap can be used to lubricate
the rubber grommet. If necessary, file the sharp
edges of the pipe to prevent damage to the grommet.
NOTICE: The pipe should pitch down to the basin inlet at
1/4” per foot. This will cause the water to run into the
6. Attach the discharge pipe to the sewage pump. The discharge
pipe should stick up and out of the basin 6-10”.
7. Drill a 3/16” hole in the discharge pipe 3” above the
pumps discharge pipe thread.
8. Set the pump and pipe down into the basin.
9. Install the rubber discharge grommet into the basin cover.
Lubricate the grommet with dish soap and slide the cover
down over the discharge pipe. If necessary, file the sharp
edges of the pipe.
10. Pull the power cords up, through the center electric cord
hole and Install the electric cord grommet, into the cover.
11. Install the rubber vent pipe grommet into the vent hole, in
the cover. Slide the 2” vent pipe 2 inches into the hole.
The vent pipe must go through the roof of the building or
it can be connected to an existing vent pipe. The sewage
basin must be vented.
NOTICE: Bolt the lid to the basin. Do this before the concrete
floor is poured. This will prevent wet concrete from
filling up your bolt holes and keep the basin from warping.
12. Install a 2” check valve in the horizontal portion of the
discharge pipe. See Figure 1. Make certain, the flow indicating
arrow, points away from the pump. This check
valve will keep the water from running back into the
basin when the pump is not running.
13. Double check the connection between the discharge pipe
and the septic or sewage tank. They must be connected
before the pump is plugged in.
14. Insert the float switch piggy-back plug into the properly
15. Plug the pump into the piggy-back plug.
16. Check the operation by filling the sump basin with water
and observing pump operation through one complete
Failure to make this operational check may
lead to improper operation, premature failure, and flooding.
Explosion hazard. Improper ventilation of
sewer gases can result in leakage of methane sewer gas, and a
possible explosion of fumes, resulting in severe injury or
death. Vent basin according to all local codes.
NOTICE: Proper ventilation is also needed to prevent negative
basin pressure and to provide the necessary air for proper aerobic
activity within the basin.
The sump basin and cover, pump, and piping should be protected
from freezing temperatures. If there is any danger of
freezing temperatures, the unit should be drained. Consult
your pump manual for instructions on how to drain the pump
to protect it from freezing.
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